Thought I should “sticky” this pic for those confused about offset etc.
This is a typical of what we often start with, and how we try to finish off the bending to remove offset.
Offset was put into clubs by design to help band aid poor golf swings. While offset does lessen the damage of an OTT swing, it’s wreaks havoc on a proper swing where the player is forced to over roll or hand throw the clubhead at the ball independent of true connective rotation.
Offset also tends to pork chop the divots rather than encourage a more linear strike through impact which sends the ball into a much more penetrating ball flight.
Removing offset also tends to bring the woods and irons more into harmony so the player can use the same swing and not have to have separate swings to deal with the differences between offset vs forward face progression in the woods.
No offset irons are really designed for a hard hitting action and firm shafts.
I just picked up a set of 99 Hogan Apex muscle backs. They’re the newest/youngest set of Hogans I have and although I’m not sure of the entire specs they do appear to have a slight degree of offset.
Haven’t had a chance to even strike a ball with them as yet but wondering if a classic type swing will still work with this type of club set up. Until I’ve had a chance to take them to have the lies flattened and the offset removed, could I compensate for those factors by say, flaring the club open slightly and maybe getting the toe a bit higher than usual?
Will def have them adjusted.
I’m just curious to know if I went for a casual game with someone who only had modern type clubs (and I didn’t have mine with me), could I still use the swing I use with the old gear I have?
The flatter you swing through impact… the more critical it is to remove offset (if you are hitting)
With a slight bit of offset, I would not worry about it. As your swing improves, you might want to address the problem if you are missing a lot of shots out to the right… or feel you have to do something awkward to square up the clubface… like flick - roll the hands at the ball… or come OTT.
What you don’t want to have is big offset while using a flat hitting action.
Hard to detail exactly how to do it…
it’s really an art form. You have to bend up high on the neck, then go back and bend low…
but it’s more complex than that because I used angles also, and there is a way to set it in the vice.
Tricky stuff. I have found also that different machines require a different touch and feel to doing it.
But the basics are to bend weak from up high, then bend back strong from down low.
I was looking at my MP 14s, and it looks like the offset is just at the bottom of the hosel like it was done to decrease loft. Does decreasing loft create offset, or does putting in offset subsequently decrease loft. If so, then the loft is going to increase by quite a bit once the offset is removed.
I don’t have a short hosel bending bar anyway, but I want to remove the offset from these clubs at some point.
There is no doubt that the irons forged in the 1950’s and 60’s are softer and more pliable…therefore much easier to bend. Cast clubs are very brittle and likely to break when stressed in a loft and lie machine.
I’m being a bit nit picky but the offset in my hogan sunburst irons is noticeable compared to my M85s to me. I was wondering if it was caused by the staff that flattened them at the local golf store. Perhaps the offset already existed in them.
I was in process of making up some pictures when Lag posted his two from top of thread, so I’ll put them up too.
Here’s a 3 iron and 8 iron. Like Lag said somewhere the center line axis of shaft is inline with the 3rd groove. The irons are from a half-set Johnny Palmer stainless. Look great at address. I didn’t get the best view on the 8, but the 3 is spot on from player perspective.