Freaks that I was playing with said it looks smaller than their hybrids. I think it looks big. I love playing actual golf again. I just wish I didn’t have to look for their ball every hole.
I’ve got an old Mac that says Jumbo on the bottom… it couldn’t be any less true in todays world. It’s a little smaller than my TM 3w in the crown but obviously deeper.
Is your driver wearing an eye patch? Tough stuff…
While regripping my '71 Wilson Buttonbacks I found that pieces of wood had been hammered into the butt ends of the shafts. Does anyone know why this was done?
Shaft extension more than likely- but they used wood instead of steel extensions
and sometimes it was helpful to stop vibration for mishits 
either way I would think it isn’t a large piece …so it shouldn’t be a worry…just think of it as a steel/hickory hybrid shaft
Thanks two,
The wood wasn’t extending so I’m guessing it might have been done to dampen the feel for mishits.
‘steel/hickory hybrid shafts’ 
Here is a very detailed document with all sorts of info on shafts, shaft installation etc.
clubmakers.co.kr/board/bbs/b … e/24_0.pdf
Enjoy!
Thought I’d dig up an older thread, to post my following question in. Mainly because the x200’s are discussed in this thread, so that way all the info on these shafts stays together.
I installed TT DG X200 (.355) in my irons a couple of months ago after having played TT DG S300U shafts for most of my golfing life before. Noticable difference that’s for sure. I didn’t feel the club anywhere in the swing with the S300’s, and now have a better idea where my club is in the swing than before. The stiffer shafts didn’t need much adjusting to either, contrary to what I had expected. I can still hit both hard and slow swings with good result. So no need to ‘step up’ the speed of the swing to be able to hit these stronger shafts.
Biggest difference I notice in the longer irons (2, 3, 4 and 5-iron). I L O V E the X200’s in the long irons. It just feels so much better than the S300’s. I can really go after a swing with confidence: the ball will do what I want. So much better than the S300’s. In the midirons (6, 7, 8) I’d say I don’t see/feel much difference, other than being able to hit low shots more easy than before. The ball stays low where with the S300 the ball would still start to climb. I’m having ‘trouble’ with the short irons though. Everything feels less ‘fluid’ (don’t know how better to describe the feeling). Hits feel harsher, where before every shot felt buttery soft. That soft feeling is gone now. I don’t see a lower ballflight either, which i was kind of hoping for in the short irons. I’m slowly adjusting to the new feeling though, so i’ll stick with these stiffer shafts.
I was wondering though if the fact that i like the stiffer flex in the long irons better is something that is ‘normal’? I would have expected it to be the other way around. Not much difference in the short/midirons, but a lot of adjusting in the long irons. If it is normal, can anyone explain how that works?
I think it’s normal.
You need the stiffer flex the most in the longer irons due to the length of the club. For me the X200’s offer much more control, and as you said, improved club/head awareness. I feel this makes them easier to hit because the clubhead is not lagging behind as much as with the more flexible shafts. The shorter irons feel stiffer too but there’s not as much of a difference as in the longer clubs.
Since I switched to more of a pivot based short game approach the short irons have been giving me plenty of feel and feedback thru impact. I’m not sure that you were talking about the short game here but technique could still have something to do with it I guess.
Hope this helps, Cheers, IoZ
I agree that your observations are worthy of serious consideration.
I have often thought about putting together a set with a different gradation of flex from super stiff in the longer clubs to shafts a bit looser in the short irons. I still like working the ball a bit with the short irons, and looser shafts make it a bit easier to do so. I rarely am going at anything even 80% with an iron less than an 8. Mostly I am hitting a lot of 3/4 shots with short irons and wedges to keep the ball down.
On the older step pattern shafts, most seem to be about a half inch between steps, but I think something worked into more of an hour glass pattern might be interesting to move them from very tight to much wider as you move into the shorter irons.
If I was one of these “I hit wedge from 150” kind of players, then I might like really stiff shafts in the short irons, but I prefer a much more finesse game inside 150, but a much more power, boring flight trajectory in the longer clubs.
Whilst on the subject of wedge distances etc
I really struggle to hit my shorter irons any distance at all, for me 150 yards is a 6-7 iron. My wedge (48 degree MP67)…is nearer 90-100 yards.
Now I know/feel I’m just not hitting these shorter shots properly (a high weak slap - no penetration), I feel ‘all arms’…arms not connected in any way to my torso, it’s certainly not a pivot driven hit. Maybe if I ‘really flatten’ these wedges (I do have a loft/lie machine atm), it will force me to use less arms and more torso rotation. At the moment my wedge is about 60 deg, and for a short arse like myself, that’s probably not flat enough. I did bend a set of 99 Apex’s 2 degrees flatter than Lag’s specs earlier in the week to 1) take account of my height and 2) because they ‘look right’ at that spec. I haven’t hit them yet. The person I bought them off must have had them set upright because I had to move a few of them about 10 degrees 
Hopefully the latter ABS modules will sort this out for me - the observations of others would be useful.
ZM.
Now that you’re back lecoeurdevie,
First of all a big thank you for starting this thread some time ago. There’s a lot of good info in here and a lot of it is in your posts.
Do you still play the same stuff (Cleveland driver and Hogan compact blades) and how do you like that setup with the heavy x-shafts?
Any changes, comments?
Thx man, appreciate it. I learned a ton doing all that and it was really fun and so worth it. Ya it’s exactly the same set as the pics I posted last yr. I didn’t play at all from April thru November as I was in South America way up in the middle of nowhere doing a contract job and then when I got back it took almost a month moving back to California. The only changes I made were in the irons where I yanked the shafts and hardstepped them 2 clubs. I never did get the shafts out of the 3 or 4 wood as they are sunken bore and beyond my level of expertise to safely mess with so they still have the old orig Dynamic S taper tips but they are still pretty good. Eventually I’ll pick up a few Cleveland fairway heads and get ridiculous and put some 45" X500s chopped down 3" all off the tip for funsies but not today. Oh yeah if anyone has the opportunity to hit taper tip wood shafts definitely do it (Olive branch extended to all: LeaderboardGolf.com, they have EVERYTHING, all original old stock; its under the closeouts menu). Its the difference between night and day. A parallel X300 plays weaker than a taper R200, for real.
I love the clubs, and the stiff shafts don’t intimidate or sting even after a layoff and the weight gets the muscles activated in a hurry. More than anything the leather wraps spoiled me for life. I’ll never hit another rubber or Winn-crap grip again. Maybe an old stock real cord, maybe but they feel light. The leather gets better with age like a good bottle of wine. In 5 yrs they’ll be perfect, but they’re close now after just one.
So were you able to reuse the X200’s you had to begin with? I mean did you put the original 5 iron shaft in the 3 iron head?
I’m asking because I was thinking of doing just that.
You see I have a set of Hogan PC5’s in which I put taper tip DG X200’s (tipped 1") and I’d like the long irons to be stiffer than they are now. But a 2 club hard step with the existing shafts would mean that I’d have to add about an inch of butt implants 
to get to standard length.
Ya I used the same shafts, put new 9/wedge shafts in the 7 & 8 iron, and transferred the wraps from the old ace & deuce to the 7 & 8. Any of the wraps I didn’t have to do over was worth it even if everything is shorter in length. They still swing out d3.5 with those heavy wraps, underlistings and 2 wraps of tape which is fine and plenty heavy. The short irons are good nice low traj without a lot of flyers with the old balatas or Professionals. And theres nothin wrong with butt extensions except when u wear spandex 
…
What does your 5i weigh overall and how long is the shaft with the extension?
What does your driver weigh overall?
Eagle, I know your question was for lcdv, but I just came across this while browsing this thread (page 9). It answers your first question:
Thanks IOZ !
Thanks for bringing that back up. I found a matching one iron and set the loft at 16 and put the 2 iron at 19. The 5 is 39 1/4" which is like 3/4 or 1/2 over. Maybe more a bit depending on what standard you go by. I don’t have a scale so I dunno what the total weight is. And I strengthened the short irons a little, moves the 9 to 44, EW to 48.5 and the SW to 54. That was just adjusting the yardages.
Well—look who’s back!!
Good to “see” ya…
bent
Just for clarity,
I don’t use an upright PW, but I do bend my SW upright… and this is pretty much designated for sand only… although I do use it from heavy greenside rough.
The reason I bend it upright, it allows me to keep in the same swing plane path when I open up the face to hit a sand shot.
When you dramatically open the face, you have to then lower your hands… so with it bent upright, I am then able to lower into my exact same swing plane path… so nothing feels awkward. Then as far as the sand is concerned… now the club comes in and out of the sand a bit steeper and spends less time in the sand… because I am thinking not just entry, but exit also.
This way I am a lot less likely to ever blade a bunker shot because I can spank it down much more aggressively without fearing it bouncing up from too early an entry or if the sand is a bit firmer than I estimated.
The whole thing with SW is weight. The old timers knew what they were doing with the super heavy SW’s. The extra mass really does wonders for keeping the club moving through the sand… especially in wet or heavier sand. All the modern SW’s are just really fairway clubs. Although they might be good for that purpose, they are not good universal sand clubs. Maybe on the PGA Tour they are playing homogenized sand every week, but I play a real variety of sand conditions in the real world, and the R20 type SW’s are simply the best design ever. Nothing about them has been improved upon in 70 years.