Y’all need to find out what you’re doing and what the shaft does at standard before you start hardstepping and chopping the tips off of taper shafts, no matter what Andy Bean did in 1986. When you are missing your spots by 5 feet at 183 out, then you start doing this. Until then breathe… If Don White saw this he’d never speak to anyone here ever again… When you play around with taper shafts they get ruined 99.999% of the time. Get some stock stiff taper iron shafts and start hitting it inside 15 feet 10 times a round, and put some tipped X parallel shafts in those persimmons and hit 12 fairways at 280 with 4 different shots. When I get THERE you’ll notice a little something in my hands called the Claret Jug…
Remember these are like Katanas, and you don’t chop shit off of those…
Interesting stuff as always… I appreciate your level of understanding the finer points to all of this stuff which I suspect many of us take for granted.
Is it possible we have enough information in this forum to develop some sort of db on shaft configurations? I’m talking in terms of parallel tip, taper tip, tip sizes, flex, weights, playing characteristics, etc? I know TT probably has a bunch of it online as far as their stuff goes (which is mainly what I’m interested in), but I’m not sure about the Apex stuff. Also, is there any sort of info out there regarding iron hosel bore sizes/shapes? Were there any standards used in different eras and/or by certain manufacturers or is it all a crap shoot and you just have to pull shafts and measure?
I still have some sets that I need to get into playing shape which will mean some re-shafting. It would be nice to have an idea of what options were out there before spending money on bad setups.
It’s a nice idea to get a DB of everything but I really don’t think it’s that ness. First and foremost I would think that just about everybody here would want to be hitting .355 taper DG’s in the irons. I’d say for the am’s S400 and for the pros whatever feels right in an X. When you’re looking at all these old heads, if the seller can’t confirm that the shafts are .355 or you can recognize them as such don’t buy it. I don’t care if the heads are pretty, if they ain’t .355 I ain’t buying it. Lag already blew out an elbow out of pure stubbornness IMO. There’s plenty of good clubs that already fit DG shafts. Next with the persimmons you’re already redrilling them so put the .335 X shafts in tipped an inch or whatever until you’re ready to ride shotgun on the road with TM or me. I’m setting up this set of woods to play for real in pro tournaments and I need the taper wood shafts to make a living, I keep seeing where so many here aren’t even using their good clubs as their gamers. So much of this is made so much harder than it has to be, I put in the forums what the adjustment options are and everybody wants to jump to the furthest crazy extreme that doesn’t even work at all anyway.
So rather than making everything way more complicated with all the stuff that few can integrate into their game yet, just get a set of heads that are .355 to begin with and buy some S4’s. That way nobody ends up in the E.R. and nobody ends up with garbage .410 bore aluminum shafts. I don’t care if they are Buttonbacks, they are still wrong with those crap shafts.
And all the Apex and Legend Steel is .355, but… way lighter than DGs, so be prepared to extend the length (and flatten them more) or tape 'em up to get the swingweight back that you lose when you install DG.
I understand LCD. I would be surprised with any other response. It certainly does not make you an @$$ hole! Would you be open to further discussion if I got serious about it?
The driver is done and I have a new best friend. Hit it on about 8 holes today and it’s string city. I put an X4 in it and trimmed the tip 1/4" and converted the blind bore to a bore thru. It feels a little light but perfectly balanced at D5.5. I felt like I was kinda making a Tommy Armour III move today and I had it EXACTLY on line every time at about 270 air with a med-low trajectory using the old Pro 90. When I snap sliced it on 18 it moved right about 8 feet. I have no idea if I can ever make it turn left but probably when I can drop it deeper in the slot I’ll be able to draw it a tiny bit. The move was kinda like slamming a refrigerator door and bang, bullet with some hang time. This is actually getting fun again, the confidence with the driver feels like it’s bleeding into the rest of the clubs already.
I like that “string city” phrase…hoping I can use those words one day to describe my own shots.
I’d be great to see a picture of that driver…did the club fitter flatten it out for you?
I also watched Tommy Armour lll and posted a comment about him on the student side of the forum, mainly regarding his post impact move…which I am presently very tuned into. I am wondering which part of his move you were focusing on. Also, do you think his post impact move is more for power, accuracy, or both?
I’ll post a pic when I get home tonite, its that same 10th anniversary head and it doesn’t look a lot different. Lance, my club guy was a little apprehensive about redrilling it. Besides I don’t care all that much about the lie angles on anything longer than a five iron, I can cut the long clubs sitting in a chair or on my knees, that’s how I learned the move pushing 20 yrs ago. Who cares if the toe is way up in the air on a club with little loft on a tee? The shaft is 90% of the battle, more with the driver, all the head is is a counter weight with a little loft to put some spin on. Doesn’t matter a bit how big it is or what its made of…
Wow, these pics came out good, I have no clue what I did… Next I gotta get the sunken bore shafts out of the persimmon heads, say a prayer…
