Shaft Tech

Hello lcdv, welcome back!

Am I correct when I’m thinking that by hardstepping your shafts, you now have shorter shafts? Reading above you made them +3/4" to get to the desired swingweight. So are your shafts now -1/4" when compared to “standard”? Also, does that now mean that you have effectively also flattened your lie by a couple of extra degrees? Just curious.

I mentioned in a post a couple of months ago that I love the stiffer shafts in the long irons but have “trouble” with feel in the short irons. I am now thinking of getting some S400 shafts to keep the same weight as the X200’s and replace the X200’s from the SW and 10-iron (and maybe my 9-iron) with S400’s. I think you also had S400 in the wedges, how is the transition fron the S400’s to the hardstepped X200’s in the midirons?

Last question: lagpressure posted a link to www.bestgrips.com in the equipment forum. Where did you end up finding the grip collars and grip caps for your leather grips as i seem to recall you had a hard time locating those as well last year.

WUZZUP! I got the S in the wedges I think for me it would get weird going from like an X in the 7 & an S in the 8. I like the softer shaft in the clubs I do most of my pitching & chipping with and I like the feel & trajectory on the short irons. I think Lance my club guy messed up the lengths the first time round like used the raw shaft length instead of the total because the one iron ended up as long as my 4 wood. Even after switching the shafts they are still over a little. I got a bunch of collars with the Neumanns from the guy in Canada, enough for everything. And I just used the underlistings, I couldn’t find any hard caps. They’re a lot easier to install anyway… The lies are I think 8 flat, I had them 5 & then went another 3 & got real nervous when the 9 iron popped a little. I’ve never bent a set so far in my life. When I got them they were all over the place from 1 flat to 3 up. Pure luck I didn’t snap any of them.

And if the short irons feel harsh an old trick is instead of softening the shaft, remove it and grind the top 1/4" off the top of the hosel. That’ll make it feel way softer without really changing anything.

I remember reading somewhere that Johnny Miller did this to his favorite set of irons. Maybe even more than a quarter of an inch…

Wouldn’t doubt it. A friend of bentshaft’s taught me that a long time ago. Also told me Fuzzy Zoeller was the biggest pain in the ass in the history of golf when it came to tweaking clubs…

The long necks did move the flex point up the shaft a bit… but I actually like that personally. Also the long necks allow me to get rid of any offset on the club which is paramount for my sets. Nothing worse than looking down at any offset. The more lofted the iron, the more face progression I like so I can aim the center of the shaft right down into the third groove. It’s subtle but very real also.

There is a huge tendency for offset irons to cause an OTT move to square the face up. I want to be rewarded for the efforts of my forearm rotation into impact.

I can see that but I always thought face progression applied only to woods. The only thing I’m thinking of is shortening the amount of surface contact between the shaft & the hosel. If it’s bored in really deep into q thick hosel it makes contact feel like a brick, harsh as hell. The length of the bore should be pretty much the same no matter what it is, like in those long neck oldies the extra space to bend it twice & play around is below the shaft bore, after all the first rule of loft & lie adjustments is stay away from the shaft right? So the longer neck changes the raw shaft length and then indirectly the kickpoint. I like the look of those long necks too but I like the thought of more mass behind the ball too as long as that’s where it is. I guess it gets down to a balance between the two…

Can anyone help me identify some shaft I bought recently?

They are True Temper, mainly 45" were sold simply as being Stiff.
The distance from the last step to the tip is about 12 inches
The tip thickness just below the last step is .350 inches, but it tapers down to .300 in the last 4 - 5 inches of the tip

Looking at this chart, the closest would be the Parallel Woods .350 tip Stiff (5th one down), but the taper at the end is cornfusing me a little, are they parallel or taper?

They could be quite old if that would make a difference.

TT_shafts.png

And would tipping these 3 inches to use in fairway woods be viable with that taper?

No. Hardstepping is like putting a 7-iron shaft in a 6-iron (provided it is taper tipped). Let’s say you order a set of parallel tip irons. You will get the entire set with the shafts being the same length. And they are designed as such that when you cut the shafts down to the appropriate length for each club, the shafts will be ‘all set to go’ as in the shaft flexes should be correct.

If you order taper tip, the shafts will not come to you in all one length. They will have variable lengths, longer shafts for longer irons. However, you still have to cut those taper tips to the right size. Let’s say you typically play your 5-iron at 37.75" long. You may receive a specific, 5-iron taper tip shaft at 39" long. Then you are supposed to cut that 5-iron shaft to 37.75" long and put that in your 5-iron.

All you do with hardstepping is you would take your 6-iron shaft (let’s say it is 38.5" long un-cut) and then cut it down to 37.75" long. What happens is when you hard step, it will make the shaft stiffer. So if you have a S300 shaft hardstepped once, it will play between s300 and X100. Softstep goes in the opposite direction…softstep is like putting a 4-iron shaft in a 5-iron and it weakens the flex a bit. So a S300 softstepped would play between R300 and S300.

Again, this is with Taper Tip Shafts. You always cut down taper tip from the butt end. If you want to make parallel tip shafts stiffer, you do what is called ‘tipping the shaft.’ This means they are cut from the tip end which makes the shaft stiffer.

As far as shaft technology goes, you really need to know your golf swing. One of the things that is important is hand location at what Lag calls ‘P3’ (shaft parallel to the ground before impact). The closer your hands are to the target, the stiffer and heavier of a shaft you’ll probably need. The further away from thet target, the more flex and lifter shaft you’ll probably want.)

3JACK

NRG, just pointing out the page at http://www.truetemper.com/golf/pages.php?pID=26&CDpath=6 for identifying TT shafts in case you hadn’t seen it. But when I went through it recently I recall nothing as small as 0.300", but as you say, you may have something very old and not covered.

That page is all iron shafts. TT as far as I know doesn’t make any taper wood shafts hasn’t for well over ten years. The .350 X300s I tried were a joke, I tipped one down to the first step on a Titleist driver and it was like a rubber band. I’m still thinking about retrofitting a taper shaft (.294 diameter) because I like the head a lot but I haven’t tried it yet. The only source I found for shafts is leaderboardgolf.com. The taper wood shafts and old stock taper iron shafts (made in USA, higher quality, no spining req) is under the closeout menu. You can tell the authentic taper wood shafts because they burned the tips with a torch. Playability wise they are in a class all by themselves.

NRG,
I have some of those .294 shafts with the burned tips from leaderboardgolf.com.
Let me know if you want me to send you some pics (or measurements) so you can compare it with your shaft.

Cheers fellas,

Yep they’ve all got burned tips. So it looks like they are all 44" - 45" taper tip stiff wood shafts, overall length of the tip being 12".

My intention is to tip them down to either 41" or 42" and use them in 3 - 5 woods, bringing the tip down to about 8" which is about the same as the X100s. I don’t understand what difference the taper is supposed to make if it is burried inside the clubhead.?

IoZ,

What did you get? Are they taper tip X100s? How long is the overall tip in those?

I got taper tip .294 X300’s in varying lengths. I will measure the length of the tip (up until the first step) when I get home tonight.

NRG, isn’t there a printed code on the butt end? Something like TTDGIX…

My shaft specs:
Brand: True temper old stock
Stifness: X300
Length: 44"
Tip diameter: .294" = taper tip
Tip to 1st step: 9.25"

I was watching an episode of ‘How it’s made’ on National Geographic or on the Discovery Channel…
They were showing us how high strength fishing rods were made. It struck me that they were very similar to golf shafts. Spining is essential for rods as they need to be able to withstand a significant amount of force in one direction…
For this particular brand of fishing rods they had a dedicated guy who did all the spining before the blank rods were assembled. He simply took a rod in one hand and with his other hand he pulled the tip down a few times, just to get a feel for the stiffness. After that he rotated the shaft a little bit and repeated the process until he found the area of the shaft that feels stiffer than the rest.
This guy obviously has done this a million times and has developed very good feel for stiffness but I still decided to give it ago on some TT DG X200’s that I had bought on eBay.
I had bought spined shafts (the spining alone cost me 25 dollars!..) so I could check my work, assuming that the spining had been done correctly.
By holding the shaft vertical with the butt end in my left hand and tip end pushed onto some carpet on the floor I could push the middle of the shaft with my right hand to flex the shaft. Use the same amount of force each time and rotate the shaft with your left hand after each flexing and I guarantee that you will find the stiffest part. I checked with the spine mark and it was at exactly the spot that I had found. I do have to say that some of the shafts had a less pronounced spine and they were a bit harder to find. I think that for an ABS type swing it is not critical anyway but it if you get this right the flex of the shaft will be more uniform across the bag. It can’t hurt and the longer the club the more of a difference you will feel.

IOZ
How would you align the spined shaft in a finished club??

I set them at 9 o’clock (if you look down at adress) because that way it should withstand the forces of impact the best.
Or at least that’s my understanding of it… :confused:

Some guys set them at 3 o’clock because you’ll get more distance that way. but that’s not applicable to ABS type swings I guess.
You can also set the spine at 6 o’clock to prevent shaft droop, but I haven’t tried that.

You know what, if you use heavy stiff shafts I don’t think that it really matters all that much as long as you have all the shafts lined up the same way.
Hope this helps.

This is more of an issue for dead hand swingers and for those using regular or whippy shafts. Spines are quite difficult to find in a X shafts when the grip is on (especially on the shorter clubs), even using a spine finder, so its not something we really need to worry too much about. But like you said IOZ, it can’t hurt.

IOZ,
You are touching on a subject very close to my heart, as I spent 13 years as a fishing rod designer. The spine in a tubular structure is a very misunderstood thing. Most if not all folks are under the impression that spine is a “thing” caused by a single manufacturing anomolie. In a graphite golf shaft or fishing rod, most think that it’s cause by the overlap of the fabric. For the record, the spine is an “effect” not a “thing” that is caused by about 8 different factors, namely, fabric overlap, ovality, eccentrity, voids in the resin, inconsistencies in the fabric, fabric alignment, straightness of the structure itself etc…add all these together when a tubular shaft is under a load, and you get the spine. The spine is an effect caused by the AVERAGE of all these forces when the structure is under a load. Additionally, ALL tubular structures have a spine, PVC pipe, tree branches, golf shafts, fishing rod blanks…they all have a spine.

Now, regarding a fishing rod, here is where things get VERY confusing for most folks. There was a long held belief that when building a fishing rod that the spine MUST be placed in a certain orientation to prevent the rod from twisting under a load (a big fish hopefully). The spine always seeks to twist to the outside of a loaded structure. If you take a fishing rod and bend it, the rod will twist so that the spine is on the OUTSIDE of the curve…if you do this, you can feel, and see it “snap” into place. For 50 years, everyone thought a rod would twist under a load if the spine wasn’t oriented correctly. While in theory this sounds great, it is HORRIBLY incorrect…everyone forgets that a fishing rod has guides that are attached to the rod blank, that funnel the fishing line down the length of the rod. The fact is that it is the orientation of the guides and the pressure of the line on those guides under a load, that what will cause or not cause the rod to twist. Here’s why; on a casting rod, the reel, guides and line are on top and the line runs down the top of the rod…in this case the rod will want to twist no matter where the spine is placed, because the forces on the blank are being exerted from the line being on top…and the line is seeking the path of least resistance, which is the bottom of the rod, so the rod wants to twist. And, the higher the guides sit off the top of the blank, the more the rod wants to twist. This is why the last 10 years, the rod industry has moved towards smaller, more low profile guides on casting rods, because it reduces weight, and helps reduce torque from the line on the guides.
Conversely, on a spinning rod (or flyrod), because the reel, guides AND LINE are already on the bottom of the rod, they are already in the most stable position, so a spinning rod will NEVER twist no matter where the spine is placed.

On ANY fishing rod, the torque caused by the pressure of the line on the guides is what causes the structure to twist…not the spine. The force created by the line on the guides ALWAYS negates the forces of the spine. If we fished with rods that had no fishing line and no guides, then yes…the spine would be the cause of the twist, but since we have to have fishing line, and guides to funnel the line down the rod blank, and under a load, that line will always exert pressure on the guides,then the spine has very little importance…at least regarding rod twist.

I got into an heated discussion with a rod builder at a trade show one time that insisted that UNLESS THE SPINE WAS PLACED ON THE TOP OF THE ROD, THE ROD WOULD TWIST NO MATTER WHAT. I simply asked him if he owned any spinning rods, to which he replied “yes…of course” I then asked him when the last time was that he caught a large Bass was, to which he replied “about a month ago…8 pounder”. Then I asked him “while you were fighting the fish, did the rod suddenly twist in your hand so that it was now upside down with the reel was now on top?” He just laughed and said “ok…I see your point” The ironic thing is that there a re a lot of people that believe this will happen…it just can’t, because the torque created from the line on the guides outweighs any tendency for the spine to come into play.

Now, that’s not to say that one should not orient the spine in a specific location, because the spine effect can and does effect the feel of a rod during casting and fighting a fish. Additionally carbon fiber is always stronger in elongation than in compression, so there is some evidence that acertain spine placement may reduce breakage. But there is much more engineering that goes into a tubular structure that can reduce or resist failure than the spine, most importantly hoop strength, and the material and manner in which one achieves hoop strength. And regarding you’re comments regarding some of your shafts having a less pronounced spine than others…absolutely VERY common. Having a tubular structures with very little to no spine effect is an indication of a very well manufactured structure. It is an indication that they took care to minimize the anomolies that cause spine (straightness, ovality, eccentrity, fabric anomolies etc…). Gary Loomis of Loomis composites told me one time that the thing that seperated them from EVERYONE else was NOT the graphite fiber they were using. It was the fact that they had machinery that allowed them to make a much more precise structure, thereby maximizing the potential performance of the material itself.

Nowdays, when I teach someone to build a fishing rod, I just tell them to put the guides on the straightest axis, rather than the spine. Because if you’re building a casting rod (reel on top), there will always be a slight tendency to twist, and on a spinning rod or fly-rod (reel on bottom), the rod will ALWAYS be stable and never twist.

Golf shafts are a whole 'nuther story, because they are subjected to a whole different set of forces than a fishing rod. Additionally, in golf shaft contruction, one can utilize filament winding, which in many cases produces a more efficient structure than the standard “flag wrap” used in fishing rod manufacture. I would say, that in a golf club, utilizing steel shafts…especially stiff or x-stiff, you’re probably not going to notice much if any difference in spine placement…that’s assuming you can even find the spine on a stiff or x-stiff shaft. For all their claims of reduced weight and enhanced distance, graphite shafts are more prone to strange effects because of the higher chance of manufacturing anomolies. Here at ABS, we don’t really care about such things now do we? :sunglasses: I actually heard David Toms say once that when he found a graphite shaft he liked, he never got rid of that one exact particular shaft. The reason is because you can take 50 graphite shafts of the same make model and material and resin and they will likely all feel subtly different. It wasn’t as he said “like a Dynamic Gold X-100 where you always know what you’re gonna get everytime”

If anyone is really interested in this type of stuff, Greg Donaldson, who is the plant manager at Aldila Composites used to be a business aquaintence of mine. I’d be happy to try and engage him in this discussion if anyone is interested.

By the way, which factory were they touring? I have seen one where they tour the St. Croix factory, and one where they tour the Thomas & Thomas Flyrod Factory. I was good friends with the blank engineers at both companies…having said that, St. Croix really has a state of the art facility, and is probably making the best domestically made fishing rod…which sadly is a dying breed just like the domestically made golf club.

Best Regards,

Andy