Well, it didn’t take me long… I started with the modules a few weeks ago. I read every thread on the site… and couldn’t understand why anyone would want to play such old irons… lol!
Then I had a problem. My cast irons couldn’t be bent without cracking… I needed something forged. And hey, why pay a ton of money for new if the forgings back in the day were just as nice, if not better!
Whoops, I hope the bore is .355. If it’s not you got problems I’m afraid. Plus you have to gram weight the heads and find out what the swingweights will be with steel. Then the COG… That’s why I stay away from exotic shafts…
These problems always happen and it’s damn hard to find a great set of clubs. I couldn’t reshaft that PT and lost the wood plug out of stupidity. But I was smart and bought one that was stock with an X100 rather than an S3 and it’s still a good club with a good shaft. That .320 X1 is still heavy enough and I can play it for years as is. When you buy clubs you have to be informed and know whether they’re compatible with what you really want them to end up being. Information saves money and tears.
It may have been done somewhere in the forum, but perhaps we should post a warning somewhere. It seems like aluminum shafts are considered a “failed bit”. Whether it’s because they’re so light and weak that they just didn’t/don’t work well and simply reshafting with steel is problematic due to the fact that they had to use a larger diameter shaft to get the same strength characteristis as steel. I don’t recall what the specific issues were/are but it seemed like they were in production for a very short period of time and haven’t been seen since.
Pinzer… you may be able to salvage something, I don’t know for sure. I do know that vintage sets with aluminum shafts always seem to go cheap. I always steer clear.
I think it needs to be reiterated to buy smart when buying this vintage gear. I am the owner of 51/2 vintage sets but so far havent been able to comission any for serious play. Aslo bought three sets of laminated woods by mistake. The only club repair people I have are the big box stores and they are not interested in these kind of restorations.
better the hosel holes are too big than not big enough…
I blew out my elbow last year drilling out a set of necks with an electric hand drill…
If you put in new shafts and there is some play, you can add some sand to the epoxy and that should do the trick.
The fact they are bore through is also to your advantage.
FYI – Not sure this applies to the button backs, but I received this from Jim Yachinich of Golfworks in regard to my 66 Dynas - and the hosels were definitely smaller than .355 taper – I went ahead with the step drill process…