I think making a paste with the epoxy and sawdust and then trying to shove it into the hosel can be quite messy. So I tried this last night. Sealed the hole on the sole and the one for the screw with packaging tape. Poured some epoxy and some resin and then mixed it iniside the head followed by some sawdust and then mixed inside the hosel. When that was the right consistency repeated the process twice more. Much less mess.
Iām not sure if this is the same question NRG had a while ago. The grooves on my driver are at a different angle to the sole plate. Should I be measuring the lie angle to the grooves in this case?
Yes Teddy, grooves.
You were right, I asked that (on page 4 of this thread).
Been having some more fun working on these beauties.
Managed to reuse the Propel 1 shafts and the original leather grips and even almost line the grips up too (thanks GoLow)
Have added lead under the grips and drilled some into the heads. Its pretty tricky working out how much to add, cause you donāt know how much to add to the grip or what the SW will be until you have finished it, its all a bit chicken and egg getting both SW and DW right, but with practice I am getting closer first time round and not having to retro adjust the SW and DW after I have finished the clubs.
Those look great NRG!
Iām rebuilding my first clubs at the moment and I plan on doing things in this order:
- Flatten the lie angle.
- Install the shaft (without the grip).
- Add a certain amount of lead inside the back of the head.
- Measure SW without grip and figure out how much weight to add under the grip to get to the SW of my liking.
Do you see any problems with this?
IoZ,
The worst that can happen is you have to remove and refit the grip or drill out some of the lead if you pour in too much, or add some more if you donāt use enough.
I have been finding that (on a Driver) 3.25gms to the grip reduces 1 SW and 1.8gms to the head adds 1 SW, these figures are quite different on irons though.
Make sure you get some digital kitchen scales, I got some for a tenner (Ā£) and measure everything and keep records as you go along.
ā¦orā¦save the tenner (Ā£) for a few pints and wing it! 
Captain Chaos
Captain,
I am not sure that I am happy with what you are incinerating here.
I take my club making very seriously, if nothing else.
Cheers.
Speaking of incineratingā¦ 
I may have been a bit too enthusiastic in my first effort to get the shaft out of this Mac T85.
I was heating up the shaft and all of a sudden I saw flames coming out of the other end.
I hope it isnāt too badā¦
I guess the good news is that I managed to pull the shaftā¦
I wouldnāt worry about it too much IoZ. Iāve been setting fire to stuff for years, remember this old dog?
Just give it a good scrape and sand it back to a firm surface and replace any wood missing with some of the epoxy and saw dust that you use to fill the hole, you could maybe drill a few small holes in, so the epoxy has some roots (seen that done). Quick file and sand down and no one will know the difference.
thanks NRG, will do and report back 
must get some sleep 1stā¦
NRG,
I managed to fix the burned pieces in the sole like you suggested, thnx!
I have just added some of the lighter colored epoxy (which I also used for the shaping of the neck) on top of the black epoxy that I put on before.
Thing is, I really like the color of the wood as is and am thinking of just keeping it like that, āau naturelā.
It will need a couple of layers of clear coat obviously which will make the grain come out a bit more than now, right?
Thanks again for your help,
Cheers,IOZ
No problem mate.
You could maybe just get a Wood Dye from a hardware store.
I used a one called Colron Wood Dye Red Mahogany on this one, you just wipe it on with a cloth, it only takes a few seconds and dries really quickly.
Or a Medium Oak colour might look good on those too
The only reason I do them all black now is that no one notices a black persimmon driver on the first tee.
I would put some epoxy here too, if you werenāt already planning on doing that. Could you not get any saw dust?
NRG,
Half the fun is having everyone KNOW itās a persimmon!!!
Nice looking refinishesā¦ youāre really getting the hang of it!
robbo
Thats easy for you to say, I am still a bit of a Duffer and donāt like the attention.
Thanks a lot, it never ceases to amaze me how well they come up, even a club that is pretty badly beaten up can come up looking really great with a hour or so of sanding.
Cheers NRG
Correct, I ran out of saw dust halfway through. āWhat a stupid I amā¦ā
For now I just used the ādrill dustā that came out while drilling the new hole in the neck. I hope thatās fine also.
Thanks for your suggestions on the wood dye.
Finished my first flat driverā¦ Itās been a real learning experience; I made some mistakes on this one but it still came out pretty good I think.
Thanks NRG for all your help and the moral support after I had an accident involving lead weights coming loose.
This baby is flat, 46 degrees or so, and it sits open a couple of degrees also.
I put some lead in the butt (30 grams). Now the Swing weight is ok (D3) but the thing I am concerned about is the dead weight (15,5 ounces!)ā¦
Iāll try to hit this some shots with this beast and if necessary I can drill out some of the lead in the head.
Shaft- True Temper DGWX300 (taper tip) ā tip-trimmed 1" ā Tip diameter: .294" ā Total length: 43.5"
Wow! That looks fantastic.
Bet your glad you left it that colour now.
You will easily be able to bring the weight down if you need to.
In a rare act of generosity and in recognition of the ABSers love for real wood, Ikea has made available specially scored dowels (for better hold to the epoxy) and a variety of hosel swing weights, free of charge to all ABSers world wide. The only caveat is to guess the model of the furniture piece they are b[/b] used to assemble. Feel free to catalogue the different models here. 
You know how your own children are so beautiful no matter what they really look like? Well thatās how I look at my ānewā persimmons!
These two persimmons I picked up from Twomasters as an after thought when buying some irons from him. They are Tony Pennas and I donāt know anything about them.
This is what they looked like after taking out the shafts.
I had problems getting one of the shafts out (the driver) and didnāt realize that Iād left part of the pin in the wood. So when I re-drilled the hole I hit the metal of the pin and that caused all sorts of problems with accuracy and consistency of the hole. It also created a crack in the neck of the driver so I cut out a v-shape and re-filled with epoxy+sawdust.
Another wierd thing was that one of the screws dropped out when drilling the hole in the driver. I think this was related to the pin that was left in there after taking out the shaft.
Here is the finished product.
I drilled a hole in the back of each persimmon (see arrows below) and added the fishing weights together with epoxy+sawdust. This has taken the dead weights up to about 14 ounces and E1 swing weight - I notice NRG has just written in another thread that this is maybe too heavy for his current strength. I havenāt hit these yet out in the open but it feels like swinging an axe around my body! When I went back to my Titanium it felt like a feather (horrible)!
Finally here is a comparison between my new driver and my Titanium. I think I actually over-did the flatness of this driver!
I really enjoyed this project. They are by no means perfect but they are mine! It took me quite a while to finish - I think I started in November last year - I had to order everything in from the UK. I had to re-use whipping from other old clubs that I had and used felt tip to colour them black and then sprayed lacquer over them to maintain the finish.
I asked my wife and daughter which they preferred, the new Titanium or the old persimmon. The new one they both said. Philistines!