From Maltby…
Philips and Reed & Prince screwdrivers come in a number of sizes. Club reparimen should have 2 or 3 slotted screwdriver sizes and the #1 and #2 sizes in both Philips and Reed and Prince types.
Most club manufacturers use both the #7 ( .151 shank diameter ) and #8 ( .164 shank diameter ) soleplate screws. 
RR
RR,
I appreciate your fast, helpful info response. Thank you.
Getting the Maltby club repair book is on my ToDo list now.
Best.
1teebox
Hey 1teebox—hope all is well
thanks for that link—I will probably just order all of them…Hank probably has some laying around, but I do want to have my shop (such as it is) stocked with my own stuff!
thanks again
bent
bob
I am gutted cause I have cracked my flattened 5 wood. 
It cracked on the neck where it was built up with epoxy, serves me right for using it at the range.
I have a simple question. Why not just remove material from the heel portion of the wood and add additional lead under the sole plate to flatten a driver. With respects, I am not a fan of this method because the epoxy/saw dust neck will never be like the original persimmon neck. Also, the lines the neck creates seems cumbersome. I know several people like this method but the couple of fairway woods I had my former clubsmith flatten was done by removing material from the sole and lead added. He was a master club repairman having apprenticed under Toney Penna himself so I trusted his judgment. He always told me never mess with the integrity of the neck. Anyway, just curious.
Interesting stuff RoboDoc, I hadn’t heard of this method before…
Do you think that this would also work well if you want to flatten more than say 6* ?!
If you go that flat you’d need to shave off a significant amount of wood from the sole I think.
thanks
I am not sure about 6* or so. I have never heard of such a thing in a wood, or iron for that matter. The clubhead must be a long way away from the body, more so than normal.
I am 5’ 8" with shorter than average legs and require between a standard lie and 2* flat (depending on the swing I am working on this month). When I went to a flat plane, like Hogan, I was at 2* flat. I never had to have a fairway wood flattened more than 2*, even with my flat Hogan swing. This worked great because the amount of lead that had to be added under the sole plate is small. As for 6* flat, yea some weight would have to be added but I would think tungsten could be used as well.
Doc,
My driver is 46 degrees, thats about 8 - 10 flat old school. Modern days about 14 - 17 degrees.
Welcome to our world. 
NRG
That is interesting. I am currently gaming a 1950 MacGregor M43T that I do not have to alter the lie angle at all. I suppose I am the lucky one. 
Doc,
That must be it, I heard that people were shorter in the olden days. 
NRG
NRG,
Not just back in the olden days either. 
RD
RobotDoctor,
I’m not sure I fully understand what you are suggesting… do you mean shaving away material or wood from the underside and heel area of the sole?
If that were the case, I think it would not keep the integrity of the clubs loft in relationship to the target, and essentially still end up in the same situation
where loft is now pointing more left of the target.
I am 6-0 and have no problem hitting a 48 degree lie angled driver. It is so much easier to hit the ball straight by swinging on a flatter plane, and the best way to flatten your plane is to first flatten your gear.
Of course you do have to understand the advantages of flat lie geometry or this would be nothing but a bizarre and puzzling suggestion or ideology.
But in a nutshell, flat lie angles set us up for a swing that naturally embraces the pivot by naturally guiding the club more “behind and around us” as compared to up over the head or shoulders creating a tendency to swing the arms and not the body.
The other side of the coin is that flat lie angles make OTT swings much less damaging regarding flight path, because we don’t want to be missing the green long and left very often.
Since it is much harder to hit the ball left off flat lie angles, as hitters (ABS version) we can fire our hands much more actively and aggressively knowing that “left” is not going to be in the cards for us very often.
This 1940’s STOCK Wilson Persimmon driver shows us that the concept of a 48 degree lie angle with a driver is far from any kind of new experimental concept. I measured a modern frying pan recently that was 62 degrees… AND LONG at 46 inches… which if anything should be set up flatter than a 43 inch driver. This persimmon is 14 degrees flatter than some modern drivers.
I agree that IDEALLY we would not have to disturb the neck on a driver… however… how are we going to get a shaft in there at 48 or 50 degrees without having to rebore the hole? I have rebuilt about 10 of them and have yet to crack a neck on one. The other nice thing about reboring the hole is that you can adjust the way the head sits exactly to how you like it… a little closed, open, square, or whatever.
The idea of flattening the woods simply keeps a nice flow through your set from your long irons (for those who still carry them) right into your woods without having to change your golf swing.
Lag,
Have just re-read the club build doc, and I noticed that you built Arnies Driver 44 inches but your specs say 43 inches. Is there a reason for this and what do you recommend I go for?
I play my drivers at 43 to 43 1/2.
Arnie wanted a 44" to pick up a tinge of extra distance… but he can do that because he is a radar gun with that thing!
It’s amazing what an inch can do… at 43 I feel razor sharp with accuracy. At 44 I feel slightly reckless and almost out of control!
Lag,
Can you just clear up a couple of points please.
When measuring the length of the shaft for cutting, do you measure from the heel of the club or the point where the shaft hits the sole plate?
And do you ignore the added length caused by the thickness of the butt end of the grip?
From the heel of the club to the butt end of the grip.
Lag,
could you direct me to where the PDF file is on the forum?
Thanks in advance.
I tried but the board will not upload a PDF.
email me the file, and I can then upload it onto the server… then it can be downloaded from a link posted here…