I’m thinking about getting a set of Dynapowers off Ebay. I’ve read so many good things about the Dynapowers on ABS that I’d like to try a set.
I’ve seen a number of variables…Some have a button back. Some have a weight port. Some have a horizontal “muscle” on the back of the blade. Some have aluminum shafts.
For ABS protocols, what would be the best model for me to get?
Love the Dyna’s . I think I have hit or owned most years. My personal favourites would be:
- 1958 / 59
- 1962 “Turfrider”
- 1971 “Buttonback”
Folks go crazy for the 69 bulletback but I prefer the 3 above though they are all good, just personal preference / how they are set up I guess.
Good luck, Arnie
I recently bought a set of '63 Dynapowers on Ebay for $100. I sent them off to Jim Kronus at the Iron Factory in Colorado. For $400 I had them re-chromed, re-shafted (TT X-100), re-gripped (Golf Pride Tour Velvet Cords) and bent to ABS spec. They look show room new, hit like a dream and I could not be happier!
PS: This is my first post, so hello world.
Anything off Arnie’s list … and stay away from Aluminum shafts.
I believe that few people like feel of the Al shafts and that they have a different tip diameter,
making shaft replacement very difficult for the average/amateur clubmaker.
That being said, these sets are so cheap that picking your first set should not be too hard.
I now have 3 sets of Wilsons… and did not pay more than $50 for any of them.
One of the sets, I found in a thrift shop with a price tag of $10 … and there was a 30% off sale that day.
With a little patience, you can try them all…
I have about 10 sets of blades now.
And it does not even register on my golf expenditure list.
I spend more on greens fees and balls than on clubs.
Before ABS, I spent a lot of time overanalyzing clubs, shafts, grips and launch monitor readouts. One of the best websites for handwringers and overanalyzers is Leith Anderson’s enabling Calgolflab site.
Regarding the '63 Turfriders, Leith wrote “For years, my favorite blades were those 1963 Wilson Staffs. That model was one of the first game improvement designs. If you look closely, you will notice that Wilson expanded the back muscle pad toward the toe - moving the center of gravity ever so slightly toward the center of the clubface. They also cut the hosel a little short and took more weight out of the hosel with their innovative bore through hosel and red rubber plug. In later years, Callaway would borrow that trick. The sweet spot in early forged blades was dangerously close to the hosel. If you examine irons that were owned by good players in the 60’s and 70’s, you will see that the dime-sized wear spot was well inside the center of the face.”
I’m not sure if any of that figures into your game, just something to consider.
I’m envious of your thrift store finds - as a lefty, I’m stuck paying up because I’m lucky if I get 1/10th the club opportunities you righties get! I wouldn’t describe myself as a club ho (I played my '63s for a year before I got them fully geeked up), but when those clubs come back all shiny and new, there is definitely an urge to want to do it again!
FWIW, it was Arnie’s pictures on golfdiscussions or GolfWRX that inspired my own rebuild. So thx Arnie!
How do you guys, or the club builders you use handle the red plugs when re-shafting?
I hate to ask this as its covered in a billion places, however, you guys are very knowledgeable on the subject Dynapowers, and what better place is there to address and document this important question for those who are new to or are thinking about obtaining a classic set of Wilson dynapower irons.
Anyone had any expierience with any of the dynapower re issues? Are they a worthwhile investment, do they play like the originals?
It’s a good question. I have owned a number of limited editions / reissues of classic Wilson Dynapower / MacGregor iron sets. In general terms I think the answer is inevitably no, they do not play identically to the originals but that does not mean that they cannot be nice clubs. So the 80’s reissues of the 1965 Dynapowers on UK ebay (I am the seller btw) are very nice solid clubs to play. I personally prefer them to the remakes of the MacGregor M85 Colokrom and non Colokrom though those clubs will also have their fans on this board and elsewhere. To me the feel would be between the classic Dyna sets of the late 50’s / 60’s and the more modern Wilson Tour Blade / Fluid Feel generation. The weights certainly compare favourably to some irons from the 80’s and later. For instance they would be on average 10 grams a club heavier that a Mizuno TP9 or a Hogan PC but they would be 10 grams a club lighter (more in the wedges) than a standard 50’s MacGregor M85 or Wilson Dyna 59 or 62 Turfrider and 20 grams a club less than Lags standard specs. Basically if you want an iron that plays like a 50’s /60’s iron, I would say buy a 50’s / 60’s iron set though you can of course retrofit more modern sets as you yourself have done.