Using blades from times past- Problem with Fades

I used my '86 Spalding Tour Editions for the first time today and wondered if anyone has noticed then same after using modern clubs for a while.

I hit them very well, some 2 irons were like rockets…

I did however find that trying to fade the ball by opening the face led to shank city. This is something I normally do not do. I know from a good thread on the Brian Manzella site he describes the way in which a lot of people shank by the sensation of lagging the hosel instead of the sweetspot. Is it easier to shank a “traditional” blade with an open clubface.

I hit a few nice fades my altering my path but became very hesitant at hitting anything by opening the clubface.

I’d bee interested to hear everyones view.

Please move this to a different section if need be Lag


BTW my first 9 iron with the blades nearly pitched in on the fly, never left the pin. I think I will actually play better with them than cavitys


I suspect the offset on the older mb’s is less than many current designs, and for sure less than today’s cavity backs. I don’t know why lagging the hosel would be any more prevalent with older irons.

Are your b on b’s the same length as what you’ve been using? It may be as simple as that and/or a very different look at setup. Are you switching from “shovels” or some other current muscle back designs?

Remember too that your motion is probably changing as well as your equipment.


Bringing a swingers dead hands into a hitter’s protocol at P3 4:30 line can cause a shank. As we work more on module #1 you’ll get those hands firing correctly and this problem will go away. Active hands firing into impact squares the face for hitters.
It’s really just a biomechanical thing… once the hands get trained, you won’t have to think about it… 3000 to 10,000 reps should do it.

You will of course hit the ball better with blades, because they are much better golf clubs. FEEDBACK!!!

I do think I ending up swinging as the round went on as my divots progressively got bigger. Drawing the ball and regular shots got nowhere near the hosel :open_mouth:

All good in the big scheme of things. And I tried out the Bridgestone B330-S which felt quite good off the blades.

I love the old school blades, just gorgeous clubs. The only thing that I have found about old blades is that they are harder to hit in the sweet spot because the sweet spot is closer to the heel, I think this has to do with the longer hosels which moves the sweet spot towards the heel. Not saying you can’t play them because you can ask Lag. However, today’s modern blades are designed to have the sweet spot in the center of the face away from the heel which for me makes them dare I say it a little more forgiving. Any way that is my OP and experience but I think the science is solid :ugeek:

There are some differences between many of the vintage gear designs…

The Dynapowers have more toe weighting… yet if you look at a set of say …Hogan Power Thrusts or the classic
Spaulding “Bird on Ball” models, weight is clearly taken off the toe, just flat out ground off and then re postitioned
with more weight behind the center or sweetspot…

The good news about gear, is that with the active hand firing stuff we are working on in the modules, we are much
less likely to be negatively affected by off center hits, than golfers with light grip pressures or dead hand swingers.
We don’t want the clubhead torquing on us when we hit the ball slightly off center… :open_mouth: