Turfriders on ebay, how do you determine flex?

First post, can’t wait to try the old equipment.
Have been a student of TGM, and it has really helped my game. Much of what I have read here really resonates with me. Can’t wait to try the new concepts.

Found this set on ebay, the seller does not know the flex, and neither do I. After reading numerous posts, this seems to be a popular set that fits the parameters for abs, assuming they are stiff shafts. My searches on flex have shown some confusion on telling the flex for these turfriders. Have already bought some 1957 dynapowers (rocket stiff) in poor shape to get started.

So, for these turfriders can someone help me determine the flex? Woods any good? The auction has ended, but the seller is going to relist. If you have any other input on better sets for a newcomer to abs, I’m all ears! Any help is appreciated. I should probably show some patience. I can sure wait for a better opportunity if there is any question, but it’s my nature to jump in headfirst. Next step, carpet and old duffel.
Here is the listing for the expired auction:

ebay.com/itm/Wilson-Staff-Fl … 7675.l2557

Thanks much and Happy Holidays!

Wilson usually put a colored paint ring on the shaft. Black is normally regular flex and red was firm. See if that ring is there. Also check the first step length on the wedge as the shorter the step then the stiffer the shaft is likely to be.

I would steer clear of those, there are plenty of good sets out there with stiff shafts in them already. The woods at laminates, not persimmon.

I would agree with NRG. You can do better than those clubs, and yes patience is a virtue. If I were you I would look at the set of macgregor m85’s tinman has just put back up for sale. I have a set of m85’s and weight wise they match lag’s specs. Plus tinman has already flattened them.

I would also add that I have two sets of turfrider irons and they are very playable and enjoyable to hit. The first set I bought to try out and see if abs was for me. I think I paid 30 bucks for the set, which had regular shafts. I paid for new grips and to have them flattened which cost about $100. They played fine but the weight is less than lag’s spec weight, in part due to shorter shafts. I then trolled ebay until I found another set of turfriders with faces and soles in very good shape. I left them with lag and Mike Rees abs’d them. This new set has modern length x100 shafts and are as heavy as my m85’s. They are excellent and feel solid, way better than my original turfriders. I think the turfrider long irons are a bit easier to hit well than the m85’s though both are very playable, this coming from someone who never played blades before, though I have practiced quit a bit with them.

Here’s what I would recommend for someone starting out with abs and vintage blades.
Try a set of macgregor m85’s, they will give you a feel of heavy irons, and if you find a good set all you may need to pay for extra is flattening. There maybe other macgregor sets that meet this weight criteria with original shafts, my only experience is with the m85’s
Lastly, if you do not do your own club work, i.e. reshafting and bending, and you are pretty sure abs is for you, seriously consider buying a set from lag. The cost may seem high initially, but when you factor in ebay time, grips, shafts, incredulous looks from those about to bend your clubs, and the fact that Mike Rees and Lag do great work then the sets on agbay begin to make more sense. Otherwise, you want to find the clubs that need the least work, with good faces and soles, stiff shafts, good length, good grips, and close to appropriate weight. The last criteria is the tricky one in my view.

Ok, one more thought. Recently I picked up a pretty good set of wilson dynapower button backs 71 -72 with newer stiff shafts for 68 bucks. I wondered what it would feel like if I played something just a bit lighter. Well, they were at least an ounce lighter than my abs’d turfriders, and did not feel anywhere near as solid because I’ve gotten used to the weight and like it.
It just serves to confirm my thoughts above.

It’s very tempting to buy cheap clubs off ebay. It’s not too expensive getting stuff bent flat or re-gripped. But it is a false economy once they need re-shafting. Most club makers wont be able to handle offset removal either. I can’t look at a club with offset anymore.

Wow md, nrg, and turfrider,
Thank you very much for the thoughtful and insightful responses. Have just set up for the first 3 modules. I will try to keep my eagerness in check.
And now off to see the irons tin man has listed, if they’re still there.
Thanks again,

+1 to NRG, but I’ll elaborate . I recently bought a set of dynapowers from lag for $500, these were the most expensive he was offering. Most sets are $400. I’ve been using a set of mizuno mp 69 blades and I tried to spec them out like lag. They already had X100s in them, bent flat and appropriate lofts. I had to buy lead tape, weight tubes (to counterbalance), weights to put in the tubes, grips. Now for the costs: Lead tape $16, Weight tubes/weights $20, Grips $60, plus shipping = $100. If you buy a classic set on ebay you will NOT find a decent set with X100 shafts. So add $150 for the shafts now you’re at $250. I’m satisfied with my mizunos as a BACKUP set and here’s why. I know two clubmakers that live 5 minutes from me, one is in his early 60’s and the other is in his early 70’s both have been doing club work for 40+ years. The head pro at my course is 65, been a pro at my club for 35 years and has PGA tour experience. I asked all of them if it was possible to remove offset from irons and they all said, NOT Possible. The only way you’re going to get a set made the right way is to buy them from Lag. Unless you’re highly skilled with a bending bar to remove offset, want to buy a classic set from ebay for $50, new shafts for $150, supplies $100, and do all the labor yourself.