Hello All,
I have been looking through the threads and need a couple of questions answered please!
as I am preparing to dive head first into my first persimmon flattening project…
The clubs I am flattening are 2 Palmer Peerless Persimmons, driver and 3 wood from the late seventies I am guessing…
On Lags tutorial I see that 3/8’’ bit is used to drill to the sole plate on the final pass…,
1- When I stumble into golf land what shaft to I ask for, Since a x100 is the favored wood shaft, which do I request… .335 taper or .370 parallel , in my limited understanding drilling with the above, will result in a ’ parallel’ bore…does that matter?
2- I am a little baffled by all of the discussion by the tipping recommendations I have read, … can I get a good basic starting point on how to much to tip the shaft on these 2 woods…, Ill be butt trimming to Lags specs…
I understand that there are a lot of variables, feel, indivual pref… etc… just want to knock out my 1st 2 , and go hit them!
.335 parallel is a standard wood shaft (you can get .350 as well)
.355 taper is an iron shaft
.370 parallel is iron shaft
Not sure if you can still get taper wood shafts.
I would just stick with .335 parallel.
You will need to check the tipping instructions for the shaft you choose and tip it accordingly, they are often different. Fitting it to a Persimmon where you drill down to the sole deep into the head will be about the same as a through bore. The more you tip it, the stiffer it will play.
I would guess that if you tip a .335 Dynamic Gold X100 by 1" for the driver and 1 1/2" for the 3 wood, then you will be fine for now, but you could probably tip a lot more and still be fine, just make sure its still going to be long enough.
The .335 taper tip shafts are supposedly stiffer near the tip. But both will do just fine, and parallel shafts are much easier to find IMHO. Good luck with the flattening!