I’ve lurked a long time, back on the old forum too, and never had a reason to ask a question… until now. Events lately have allowed me to begin building the set of clubs I’ve wanted, and that will help me learn to hit and not swing. Most likely, the last set I’ll ever play.
Last week I received a set of Tommy Armour 985’s; 2-9 irons and a 152 double service wedge. I’ll need two more wedges, but I don’t know where the 152 fits in. Is it a 10i, GW, or SW? What were the loft/s from the factory? I’m a little stuck on how to proceed. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated, and thanks for everything I’ve learned from ABS. Also, anyone selling an early 50’s MacGregor 1 iron?
I have been a blade player all my playing life and the 985s are my type blade . A great dole grind that allows for playing on all types of turf. Plus they are so pleasing to look down at address. They are on the softer side of blades not harsh like some of the Hogan models from the same era. If you like the box type blades these will be a different animal for sure. These blades were created for working the ball and flighting shots into and out of different windows.
Side note: if you ever want to part ways with them I will be first on the list to contact.
quick update. got this in the mail from a friend across town to help my set. also, getting those irons back from my loft/lie bending guy today, and thinking I might hit a few balls. haven’t hit a ball since dec ‘23. i have some dtl vids of myself that day. i should post those somewhere here rite?
Lofts are not mentioned in Mac catalogs between late 40’s thru 50’s that I can find but lofts on clubs were kept at the corporate office if needing replacement gear, but good luck finding those recorded lofts.
Some claim lofts from that era were pretty much standard for the time so whatever degree a 7I would be, for example, would carry through different head designs, but not sure how it was treated for different lies- I’m guessing men’s gear was pretty much standard and there may have been some lie changes in gear for the gentler persuasion. Lag, Mike or Two will have better insight on that era. Too me it’s a rather large unknown sea of uncertainty.
Those SilverScot irons don’t have hosels, they have stilts. The 1950 catalog says those perfectly balanced precision ground heads gain you three shots on the field! No pressure there.
I had my 1 iron bent to 13* loft and 54* lie angles. After epoxying in a grip section from an old shaft, cutting it off at 40”, adding tape, grip, and weighing it, it came out 16.3oz? Is that too heavy or am I on the right track?
I am brainstorming on putting together a “USGA Conforming” (with reference to grooves) set of irons as close to ABS specs as possible that I could game in some high-level tournament play. I know that DG X100 seems to be the common go-to for building a set such as this, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with Project X 6.5 shafts and how they might fit into this type of set up. Greatly appreciate any input in advance!
I’m new here, but have some experience tinkering with gear, and many years swatting golf balls. Whether it’s a Project X, DGx100, Apex #1 or Pro-pel #1, the goal is uniform shaft-deflection throughout your set. Look up @lagpressure posts here about shaft-deflection and how it is measured. Beyond that, does the shaft fit the hole? or hosel? Other than weight, offset, and your visual preference, I’m not sure much else matters in an golf iron.
I meant to share this work when it is completed, but I’m excited how progress is going. And thought the gear geeks would appreciate the progress. here’s a tease…
I’m going to give you some great advice do yourself a favor and order a set of Dynamic Gold X7s they are the heaviest and stiffest shaft in the industry bar none. They are a little pricey but you will never look back twice once you have hit them. I do tell clients there is a caveat the X7s are not for the faint of heart. They have the stiffest tip section in golf and a beefed up butt end to boot.
I have played the project X 6.5 the KBS 130X and Apex 5 & both Pro-Pel models and none of them play as consistent and firm as the X7s in my humble opinion.
A 5-pack of #2 Frearson driver bits can be had through amazon.com for $14 atm. clean out the screw heads and find, nothing seats and gives you the best chance for removing these old fasteners. My hosel redrill clipped one of the sole screws, but I managed to remove the rest without vise or heat.
Given my freehand drilling, I’d guess the shaft tip is just between the powdery weight and the face insert. I gotta add 3.5+oz to get er to pole shaft 1w spec. do i hollow out a niche space with a dremel behind the insert to hide 3.5+oz? or just drill a simple hole anywhere it fits and pour?
I have a driving iron for practice coming in at a formidable 48” in length, and it’s not as difficult to wield around as some might expect. Not certain about dead weight and lie angle but I lay it flatter for sure. The funny thing after a few swings with that behemoth a regular 5 iron feels like pitching wedge length.
The sensation of twirling a club before it has been flattened, and then after, answered so many questions.
The caddie drag, rotate the shaft, loading focal point of the pivot, bow to allow the free ride down, the 4:30 path, the critical extension from the trail foot instep to leading shoulder…and the finish!
None of the above made sense, for years, until I started taking my equipment seriously. I can now understand that a change was and is worth the effort.
