My new to me irons

Hello! First time poste after much lurking :slight_smile:

I have recently aquired a set of 55’ hogan precision long hosels 2-9that i have designs on refinishing to make my playing set… Ive discovered some things on the range with them that have honestly confused me. For starters, my original set i used for many years were some titleist 690 mb irons. had them plus 1/4inch in length and standard lies with original flighted 6.0 rifles. Ive never been a long hitter, w 125yards and then 10 yards up the set so i hit my 5 about 175 or thereabouts on the fly. Id catagorize myself as a swinger, in that i swing about 75% ish and any effort to go harder or softer in tempo seems to just wreck havoc on my striking unless i play everyday… when i flush my old irons the ball feels absent, like i hold it on the face and squash it. my flight is pretty high really, annoyingly so at times and i tend to miss with blocks to the right or an occasional snap hook or 3. Enter the hogan irons

These things are short, which i expected, about an inch shorter than mine, maybe even more than an inch. They also have green stripe true temper rocket shafts in them which i read on here to be quite stiff and heavy. 2 of the irons from the set have a different shaft something dynamic so ill need to reshaft the set. No clue on the lofts or lies but i can tell they are flatter as the first few shots i had some toe heavy divets, which seem to have disappeared after about 10 balls. divet now is just as my old set. the grips are a mix of green victories and some leather wraps that feel thin in my hands and somewhat hard but i hang onto them at any rate. Ball flight is somewhat lower than what im used too, but not ridiculously. no difference in flight of the short irons only in the longs. honestly id say i hit the 5 about 175 (same as my 690’s) with a flatter trajectory. no ballooning, more so piercing which is nice. however impact is more violent. The ball feels like it jumps off the face more? not like im squashing it. think its the shaft? or the old grips? or is this just what a vintage club feels like? its not a bad thing, just different. My confusion is the distance, as it relates to the shaft. im about the same distance really in the 5, 6, 8,9 which is all ive hit. they dont look strengthened a whole bunch in terms of loft. the surprising thing to me is that my shot dispersion is tighter on the hogans. I can really feel where the toe of the club is in my swing with these. Not that they feel heavy at all… the shafts DO feel boardy which again… i dont care for, but im not sure i dont care for it because its a bad thing or because its not quite what im used too… I mean, i like the squashing feeling of no ball, but not at the expense of 3 extra yards of dispersion.

does anyone have any input as to what type of modern shaft would be similar to a true temper rocket? if they were all here i think id just play them honestly but like i said some are missing. Also these irons have some really long hosels, which i kinda like, but how does that effect shaft length and flex when reshafting? im assuming you are gonna have to trim more… whatever goes into these all that hosel is gonna make the tip play way stiffer right? Im not a club maker type so drilling out the pins and reshafting and what not while i try 20 iterations of stuff seems like more than i could do. maybe some suggestions? Keep in mind ive never been a guy that played x shafts in his irons always had been told the tempo of my swing matched with a softer flex. im actually kinda mind blown that i hit the hogans as well as i do for the condition they are in, its almost as if theyve corrected some faults with ball flight ive been fighting for a few years. namely… the snap hook. What id like to avoid is taking a new shaft that weighs whatever it does and plugging it into these heads and jacking up the MOI to the point they get too head heavy, or that beautiful feeling of where the toe is gets lost.

All i know is im hooked on vintage gear!!

save yourself reshafting and keep searching ebay for some wilson dynapowers or macgregors. i usually search “vintage irons” and you get some nice results. i got a set of 59 dynas in great shape for 50 bucks and a set of macgregor split soles in almost mint shape for 60! keep experimenting and youll find a gamer set. the hogans u have are probably close to 3 degrees flatter than your titleist. and the fact that theyre shorter has probably got you using your legs and knees nicely. which would do all sorts of good things. just wait till you find yourself some nice persimmons. nothing feels better in golf than hitting a persimmon in the screws! i have one in the mail now and i cant wait till its on my doorstep! :smiley:

The 55 Hogan’s should be a good set to work on. I would just hunt down some Rocket shafts for them. As long as the shaft is longer than the iron you need, you can just trim it to fit. I could make an entire set out of (9) 2 iron shafts. I don’t think there is a modern equivalent… because they don’t make shafts that thick and heavy anymore in this age of “lighter is better”
which of course it is not… at least not around these parts!

Lag,

Ill try and track down some more rocket shafts then, they seem to be getting better and better with each trip to the range. So solid. i think my original fear of them being to harsh was a result of not hitting the sweet spot of the club. I was hitting the center of the face (geographical center) but not the center of mass. Im now striking it a bit heelward and its much more squashy with the ball. not like really even visable on the heel… but just a hair inward. Question… ifi were to get these irons refinished at some point… would it be wise to have them bent before finishing or could i wait until after? If i go to your specs thats gonna be alot of bending and not sure how the new finish would react? thoughts? IM really getting interested in this flattening thing, but to go to an abs set right away seems like a big jump.

Wood,
Ive done the vintage search… it gets me in trouble… expecially if i come across a set of mac cf4000’s or hogan plus 1’s. But there’s somethign about the precisions… cant explain it… they just look like what i think a golf club should be… in the bag, at address… and B.H. designed them right? how can that be a bad thing :wink: Definately lookign forward to persimmons as well. Lots of local courses are just to short anymore even from the tips they are only 6800-6900 yards. But there’s also a fear in picking a real wood driver as i have no frame of reference. Whats good, whats bad, who do i go to when i buy one off ebay that is cracked, refinishing, i feel the need to really do some good research so that i not only understand what an excellent driver fairwaywood is, but tell you why it is that way, and why another isnt as good.

I can assure you that Lag will be able to give you the best information about persimmons but from my experience here is what i can tell you. basically anything wood is going to give you more feedback than anything modern. when buying persimmon, you want to keep your eye on shaft flex, and overall condition and obviously price. youd be suprised at high cheap you can get some really great gear. here is a message from lag of him replying to me about what persimmons to get.

Look for Stan Thompson… Spalding Model 28 or Old 50’s Spalding Top Flite persimmons. MacGregor 925, 945 and M60 are great blocks as are Bayer Keyholes and Pena JP1’s

I play with maxfli pro specials and a macgregor 925 driver. also have others too like powerbilts and ben hogans.

hope im not giving away a secret but this seller usually has some really nice stuff for great prices.

ebay.com/sch/stevesgolfshop5 … ksid=p3686

Tommy Armour SS1W velocitized with propel1 shafts?

what does the ss1w mean? meanwhile while i wait ill browse around the site a little more and perhaps find my answer

SS1W is just the MacGregor model number. An absolute classic, see the thread here: [url]http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/429299-1958-tommy-armour-ss1w-velocitized/[url]

SS is probably Silver Scot. 1 will be stiff shaft. W will be for Wood.