If anyone else is looking for some modern solutions tomorrow install steel shafts, I was able to get some .355 41” c tapers into some .350 adapters.
I found a Srixon z785 FL for the driver and with the 41” shaft it’s playing 43 3/8”.
For 3 wood I grabbed a Ping G430 and it’s playing around 42.5”.
Both in the flattest most open setting.
Longer write up I did for a different post:
I put 41” 130g x flex steel 2 iron shafts in my Driver and 3 wood. The tough part was getting the .355 shafts into .350 adapters.
Why - the lefts. I have been battling left misses the last couple years. I can change my grip and swing to hit cuts but I hate both of those changes. I am going heavy, stiff, and flat with my equipment to eliminate the left side.
How - had to sand the tip for a very long time. I figured .005” would come off in a couple twists with some sand paper. I was wrong. Very wrong. After sanding for 30 mins by hand I had only taken off like .002”. I busted out the Dremel and started grinding. The shafts are only about .035” this so I ended up removing 15% of the total material. That does have me a bit worried but have very limited options for steel wood shafts.
Results - sledge hammers. These clubs are heavy. I currently have some jumbomax ultralites on them. The total weight for driver is up from ~12oz to 14.7oz. The total weight for the 3W is up to 14.2oz. I don’t have a swing weight machine but I’d assume High D to Low E. I have both adapters set as flat and open as possible. I don’t have a protractor but I am guessing that the driver is around 55° lie angle (60° is pretty standard) and the 3W is at 54°. I bought shaft extenders but when the shafts were installed the driver was at 43.25” and the 3W at 42”. Not perfect but close enough.
I played 9 holes with them today and really enjoyed swing them. I am still able to draw the 3W but really have to work for it. The driver I wasn’t able to draw it at all. The shafts have a great loading and kick to them which surprised me. I’ve played some 80g x flex graphite shafts that felt harder to swing because I couldn’t load them properly. The shorter shafts definitely help accuracy and contact. I also liked the extra weight at transition. It helped smooth out the vertical drop. Most importantly to me - no hooks.
Was able to hit a couple with the 3W in the garage to get some club/ball data on the simulator. Swing speed and ball speed are both down but not nearly as much as I expected. 4-5% on swing speed and a little lower than that on ball speed. About 15-20 yards shorter than a my stock 3 wood. Swing path moved 3° closer to 0° and attack angle went from 3 up to 1 down. Pretty much matched what I was seeing on the course in terms of flight pattern and distances.
What heads are you using ? I ask because years ago in the 90s I was on staff with Titleist and I had a 975D with a steel shaft. If you remember the 975 line was pear shape so very pleasing to the eye. You just brought back some really good memories.
Cheers
Srixon z785 FL for the driver
Ping G430 3 Wood
I also put one in my taylormade brnr minidriver.
I did pick up a 975D 9* to put a steel shaft into as well.
So far I prefer the Srixon Driver to the mini driver. Mainly because I can get it much flatter.
They really fly well, I’m going to bring back out my Titleist 975D. That club was so accurate I played billet fades with it. It was a no left driver.
I tried the steel drivers. They usually flex on deflection board into the regular /soft range. This is why John makes up pole shafts by extending the ping iron shafts. I find that a bit of extra flex helps me out at this life stage. Use what works for you - feel and ball flight will tell you the answers.
Correct ball flight and results should always be the final litmus test.