How to Remove offset from an Iron

Mashie, can you post some pics when you get a chance? I would be interested in what you have done. I’ve tried to get some of the offset off my Mizuno T-Zoids but it doesn’t seem to work very well for me. I do have a loft/lie machine and bending bar and have tried the bend low then bend higher on the hosel but it just seems to bend back the offset.

Your 3 clamp system intrigues me and I would like to subscribe to your newsletter… :laughing:

Too funny!

Yes, I’ll get some pics…

I know this won’t help you but had another idea about removing offset. First get an old set that just never seems to make it in the bag. Then just bend them all weak 4 degrees so your 9-iron turns into a wedge,etc…That should take care of any offset throughout the bag. Some of these old sets come short in length so the extra half inch might be good. Plus the old iron heads seem like they have minimal bounce so an extra 4 degrees might be OK too. So your complete set might have two 2-irons but one of them will be really a 3.

i’ve done what mashie suggested to a couple of sets, although maybe not on purpose…

i’ve picked up a few sets that are 2-9 and i’ll probably never go looking for the wedge. it is easy
to remove offset when weakening them, and i like a little bounce too. once you get it in your head
that a 190-200 yard 2 iron is really a 3 iron or even a modern day 4-5 iron in some cases your good to
go.

i played in a tournament a little while ago and knocked up an old hogan 4 iron to 6 feet on a par three about 160
into a little breeze. when everyone asked what i hit i told them a hard 4, they almost laughed but then i showed them how
my 4 looks alot like their 5 or 6 irons.

i’m trying to find something that will remove the number off of the bottom of my clubs… :laughing:

You guys are on the right track. How do you think all that funky offset got on these old clubs to begin with? They’ve all been strengthened thru the years and given that weird offset that shouldn’t be there. Back in the fifties & sixties normal loft on a wedge was 52, nine iron was 48 on down to the two iron which was 21 or 22 degrees. There was variance especially with the 10& 11 irons and Hogans were always a couple of degrees strong in the five iron down but most of the old sets got bent because guys wanted the nine irons to go 130 instead of 110. I’ve seen teaching pros do this all sneaky like when they were regripping sets for their students and then con them into thinking they’ve gotten stronger & better from lessons that don’t change anything. I’ve got a set of '75 Wilson Staffs in the barn that have been 8° strong ever since I bought them years ago. They have more offset than any Ping I’ve ever seen but I never moved them just because the lie angles & length is stone cold perfect on all of them & I use that set as a control for everything else. But boy are they ugly with all that offset, the leading edges are all the way behind the shafts & the nine iron has just over 41°; I’d love to meet the guy who owned them before me. I imagine he’s about 4’8" with a wicked weak slice and plays ugly Callaways now.

Also the number on the bottom doesn’t mean anything. There’s no rules, a friend of my uncle once paid almost $1000 for a custom set with 7s on all the clubs just to keep “those goddamn lookieloo cheating pricks” from clubbing off of him. There’s nothing wrong with a wedge that only goes 95 yards as long as it ends up close to the hole.

Here are some pics…

Maybe most people don’t have the first clamp that I have but perhaps your bending bar could be held down in place instead. Then try to figure out a way to bend the top half back the other way.
3 Clamps 2.jpg
3 Clamps.jpg

So you use two bending bars? One to clamp down with the bottom part and then the other to bend the top half back?

You’ve got the right idea. The bending bar I use all the time is not pictured. The closed end wrench (used for fire hydrants) holds the bottom of the hozel in place when I bend it back weak with the real bending bar. But if I didn’t have the closed end wrench, I’d try to think of something I could use to bend the club weak as the real bending bar held the club in place as the wrench does…

Hope it makes sense.

Hi Benders.

Doesn’t the video have it backwards ? It’s taking loft off up top by the ferrule and bending it back (weak) at the bottom

According to you guys, you wanna bend weak up top and strong down by the face.

It seems like the original video was more about double bending the hosel to get more of an open face when you lay the club down on the ground. It didn’t seem like the aim of the video was to take the offset off the club, although I think this is part of the result of the bend back they talk about.

Seems to make more sense to bend back low to remove the offset first then bend forward at top to get the loft back to original specs while keeping the lower part of the hosel fixed. I tried doing the bend weak on top (which seemed to add loft and a bit of offset) and then bend lower to remove the offset but it didn’t seem to move the offset back much before I hit my intended loft. I think he was pulling and pushing at the same time to help keep the lower hosel set. I think maybe I didn’t get as much out of the pull/push as I needed.

Maybe if I fixed the bottom before moving the top back then bending the bottom forward would get rid of more offset.

Either way, it seems that clamping the bottom will help remove more offset doing it either way (top first or bottom first).

I’m going to retry removing the offset of my Mizuno T-Zoids with this clamping system and let you guys know how it worked for me.

BTW, thanks Mashie, your newsletter was quite intriguing. :smiley:

Mike & IronS,

Good post Mike. I need to double check to make sure that I’m going the right way. I agree with IronS that the vid shows you how to double bend…not so much how to remove offset. I tried bending them at first as suggested in the vid but it looked to me that the heads were walking in wrong direction.

I’ll update the newsletter with my results… :nerd:

Any ABSers want to remove offset in a set of 1969 split soles for me? I’m sure it’s a tedious job so please send me cost etc. Thanks! Located in Toronto but can ship or make a small trip out of it (in aviation).