Nice going Newton!
Pretty satisfying stuff working on your own gear isn’t it !!
I have a Power Bilt and a Palmer Peerless that I re- built that are close to you clubs’ stats;
love playing and practicing with them!
Best of Luck with your new weapon!
Dale
I’ve got a ways to go before I do this, but I’m going to start with a M85 four wood as the first project.
I’ve begun my first attempt at tinkering with a 1 wood. As you can see in the image, I dremmeled around the shaft pin, perhaps a bit aggressively, but nevertheless created a hole. I’m thinking, since there’s a hole, why not drill, say 1.5” deeper to add lead weight just past the shaft tunnel. Any thoughts?
Also, I’d like to flatten and insert a stiff 1 iron shaft. Can you recommend a shaft make/model/tip size?
I would add weight under the sole plate, then you can add weight right behind the sweetspot.
The screws are usually epoxied in but you can get them out. I use 2 screwdrivers. 1 that fits the screw perfectly and the other I heat up till its red hot, then press it into the screw so the heat transfers into the screw and melts the epoxy. Keep the screws in order so you can put them back in the same hole that they came out of.
I use the same technique for the shaft screw, saves drilling out any wood.
Best of luck! Add weight down the shaft and/or under the sole plate, as Neil recommended.
Tip size doesn’t matter if you’re redrilling the bore (just bore to fit the shaft you want). The old Spaldings are cool, I hope it turns out great.
Unfortunately, the last of the six screws didn’t want to come out, so I had to go MacGyver on it. The extractor didn’t set and loosen the screw, but it did scrape and reduce the size of the head enough, which allowed me to pop off the sole plate safely…pretty soft screw heads. Any ideas on the best screw replacements?
Shopping List for Lag’s Persimmon Rebuild Guide:
• razor blade
• drill
• drill bit (for bore through hole - 3/8’’?)
• handsaw
• vice grips
• pipe/shaft cutter
• solid metal rod
• blow torch
• vise
• ferrule (for an iron)
• finer saw?
• file
• epoxy; slow curing
• sawdust
• piece of paper
• pokey thing to mix epoxy
• masking tape
• sandpaper; medium p100 grit
• protractor; fancy
• pen/marker
• drill bit; 1/4’’
• drill bit; 3/8’’
• big towel
• old shaft (to check lie angle after re-bore)
• toothpick (shim)
• new shaft
• wad of tape
• epoxy; quick set
• stain (or paint?)
• clear coat (automobile)
• sandpaper; 400-b
• whipping thread
• scissors
• pliers; needle-nose
• club length measuring device
• new grip
• masking tape; 3’’ wide
• double back/carpet tape
• milk jug of gasoline
• paint brush for pin scar (optional)
I was chatting to a friend of mine yesterday and he was telling me that Taylormade are going to be making their drivers - maybe just for Tour players, I’m not 100% sure on that - stock 2 degrees flat. Something connected with the fact that they don’t like hitting it left/want to hit fades.
I figured you guys might enjoy that, if it hasn’t already been discussed recently and I missed it.
Can the original shaft be saved or is the step with the piping hot metal rod and torch needed to remove it?
just saw this Whoops
Yes the shaft can be saved
currently TT dynamic shafts are still reasonable ( no real volume orders for .335 or smaller shafts in 45") That said I have saved plenty and just re-shafted into a flatter lie angel
