does anyone out there play them? i stopped in a garage sale and picked up 2-9 (missing 5 iron) and
a 3 & 4 wood wilson staff tour block all for $8.
the hogans wear caked with mud, but once i cleaned them the heads were in very nice shape. the shafts
are regular and grips crumble off in your hands so i’ll have a little project with these…
i can’t remember the last time i removed a pin, must have been in college, the last set of hogand i had…
they have zero offset so i’m very excited about that…
The Power Thrusts are a great set…
Make sure the shafts are firm enough, and you might have to add some weight to them.
They are the last head design that Hogan himself tooled out. Shave weight off the toe is good for hitters. The Spalding classic “Bird on the Ball” series was basically a knock off of the PowerThrust.
thanks for the feedback guys and the wedge find photonn, althought that wedge is too rich for my blood, ha ha.
i am more than likely going to reshaft with some s400’s i have laying around. i assume they are taper tip? i can’t
imagine parallel tip was in hogans vocabulary and did they even exist back then?
also, does any body even bother replacing pins when they reshaft. i never did with my old redlines, just
curious as to what you guys do…
i also found some m85 wingback’s only 2, 3, 4 and 7 at a thrift store last week for 2 bucks per…the regular faces but definitely
dated from the 50’s based on the face design. what a beautiful club, hopefully i’ll come across the others over time.
As for the pins… what I do is drill a 1/8 hole. Then take an 1/8 aluminum rivot and cut the shaft of the rivot so it’s about a 1/4 inch long. Place it through the hole, blunt one end, then turn over and flatten the other. Then file flush with hosel. If you have access to a buffer, you can polish to a high luster
It’s not really necessary to pin irons these days with modern epoxy… but it doesn’t hurt to pin them either. It does eliminate the possibility of a head flying off years down the road.
My old MT irons were manufactured without pins as far as I can see. The head of my favorite iron flew off a few days ago. Thankfully I was alone out there. The clubs were reshafted in a club repair shop in 2009 when I joined the ABS program. I don’t know if the technician goofed with mixing the epoxy or in applying it. Did he get the ratio of hardener and resin wrong. Or did he fail to coat both the sanded shaft tip and the inside of the hosel. Did he apply too little? Maybe the old resin was not thorougly removed? What else?
I intend to bind the clubhead and shaft myself in a few days, and I am looking for a proven way to measure economical amounts of resin and hardener for small jobs like this.
In the past, doing various small jobs around the house and working on persimmon heads, I have poured small volumes of liquid resin and hardener onto a paper plate for mixing and guessing by eye to get what are supposed to be equal volumes of both ingredients. But now, to do this pinless shaft, I won’t trust my eyes to get equal volumes right. When I mix the epoxy, I hope mixing a large enough batch will improve the chances of getting the proper ratio, but for economy what would be the smallest volume or weight to yield reliable accuracy of the ratio? (I have a postal scale supposedly accurate to one gram.) With resin and hardener does measuring equal weights of each result in equal volumes?
Also, what brand of epoxy is the most trusted for our craft now days? (Any complaints or reservations about Loctite heavy duty epoxy?)
I just use Golfsmith epoxy. Haven’t really tried other things which are out there in a very long time. Some of those expoxy brands, which are quick set, are probably better for low impact conditions- maybe for a putter. I think for the other clubs one needs, in the long run, a long cure rate is better, and I think Golfsmith/Golfworks is a 24 hour set. At least they used to be, and I think that still holds true. You can use a quick set epoxy, but the shear strength is less I believe, and with as many balls as you hit I think longevity may come into play with the hold in the bore.
I don’t know the rate of cure used on Tour, but I would imagine it could be a quick set- which will hold for sure- but the forces at the tour level might pop that puppy after a round or two- or at least not as long as a 24 hour set would. But having a Tour van around, the players can get those shafts set anytime they want maybe and quickly. Don’t really know how it’s done on Tour.
I have never, ever, had a shaft come loose- even graphite- with using long set epoxy and my “special sauce”- which is aluminium oxide sand sprinkled onto the expoxied shaft tip. I put a liberal amount on there and it becomes a little work needed to insert the shaft into the hosel. Can’t really use too much of it.
But again, maybe there is a brand out there now, which is quick set but also has the same shear strength as a long set.
Check the shaft tip to see if there are any non-abraded areas that are shiny as that could cause a problem too.
The measurement doesn’t have to be that precise. If you have part A and part B…simply cut off each end of the bottle EXACTLY the same, and lay down what you need by linear measurement guesstimate. For example, maybe for one club just lay down a strip of Part A on a coffee lid about 1-2 inches long, and snug Part B right next to it the same length. Mix good…go play.
Another thing I do is overkill on the abrading. If the shaft inserts into el’ hosel, say for instance 1.5 inches and I have a ferrule that is 1 inch long, I have a total area of 2.5 inches to work with. I will then abrade about 2.25 inches of shaft since the ferrule will cover the scratches on the shaft. This not only gives a good bind between ferrule and shaft, but kind of connects the whole thing together. I wouldn’t be surprised if when you had the reshaft done, the worker only abraded maybe just a small portion of that part of the shaft actually inside the bore depth. I’ve seen that alot…someone will bring in a club with, say 2 inches of only bore depth for example, and only 1/2 of that distance was abraded.
I don’t know if you could use some fine play sand instead of oxide sand. Never tried it before, but it may work. Maybe NRG or Lag have used sand before.
Are the inside of the hosels beveled?..If not that could help too with then having a little pool of expoy where the shaft meets the hosel opening.
Forgot to add one more thing Teebox…is easy to do as one ages
I mix my epoxy on a plastic coffee can lid. The next day after the epoxy dries it is easy to check to see how well the mixture was. Simply bend the plastic lid and the dried epoxy pops right off as a whole piece. You can then check it for brittleness or pliability. Some of the epoxies for graphite used to be designed to have just a touch of flexibility before cracking…but very little…as opposed to steel epoxies which need to crack like thin peanut brittle right now.
I think Golfsmith expoxies might be dual purpose now. Don’t know for sure.
i’ve used the 5 minute quick mix stuff from home depot for years…
i usually let it dry about 20 minutes and i’m off to the races.
the only time a head came off what when i had a .335 driver shaft in
a .350 driver with the little shiv things…
real easy to mix, but it generally has to be above 70 degrees.
I know this is a massive thread revival, but I’ve recently bought a set of 61 PT’s that will need reshafting, but there doesn’t appear to be any pins. I’m doubting this to be true though for such an old set?
I have encountered some old sets that did not have pins but instead had shafts that were screwed in… yes, actually threaded.
Even heated, shaft pullers will not work either. But if you remember to pull the shaft and twist it counter clockwise, you might have some luck. Worst case is you have them drilled out with a 3/8 inch drill bit.
