Comparing various shafts today…Apex 5 Tipped, stock, I iron shafts, pole shafts.
I hang 8 pound weights from the clubheads… to see first hand what my shafts are doing. Then I adjust to set up properly.
I found out today that the Apex 5 shaft that I have owned for years, was actually tipped 4 inches from a stock version. A student sent me a stock driver with Apex 5… and I quickly realized it was not the same shaft as mine. So I compared the two on my shaft deflection clamp, then realized mine had been tipped 4 inches.
Then I ran the tipped Apex 5 vs my main gamer driver (Spalding Model 28) that has a tipped 1 iron shaft. It’s even stiffer because I want to have a a fade bias.
Then I compared my original pole shaft prototype that I practice with vs a stock Apex 5 shaft. It’s significantly stiffer.
Here is my main gamer driver… with tipped 1 iron “pole shaft” compared to my 2 iron from my main gamer set 1951 MacGregor 985. Stock shafts (very firm)
Here the deflection is pretty close… so I don’t have to “memorize” the flexation in my shafts… from irons to woods… all the same. Makes things much easier and simpler.
This is how shafts should be set up… so you have the same deflection rate from wedge to driver. Here is my 9 iron vs 2 iron… SPOT ON!
So I like to take this same concept right into my woods. No reason to be dealing with varying deflection rates when you pull any kind of wood or metal wood, etc. vs your short to long irons.
This is old knowledge that appears to be lost with modern club designers.
It’s a simple concept that should still be adhered to.
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LOVE IT! Thanks John