I have had two of my adjusted 3 woods come apart as I did not use any pins. I used the same ACE haardware epoxy that Lag uses for his shafting. I have used the epoxy for quite a few irons with no problems. To me the epoxy bond with the wood surface is never as relaible as with steel (like in an iron hosel). Teh couple of laminates woods I made, I tries to pust pins although on two of the three the drill bit broke in the process and I left it as a pin. Any thoughts.
Have you tried shimming; or aluminum oxide sand mixed with the epoxy. That might work…wood is porous and will sometimes need additional support 'cuz the wood will expand and contract due to moisture absortion and that minute back and forth motion will sometimes cause the epoxy to fail… 
RR
Thanks RR
Where can I get that?
Can find it @ The Golfworks----http://www.golfworks.com/
Aluminum oxide sand ( AOX ) is easy to use along with a high shear-strength epoxy. I don’t mix it directly with the epoxy…as a last step I liberally sprinkle the sand over the entire area of the shaft from the tip end to about 1" up higher, or more. You should feel real effort inserting the shaft -will have to twist and turn a little.
It will snug up the fit between shaft and the bore size- while centering the shaft too. And it will provide more support that just epoxy.
AOX is typically used for sandblasting metal woods and irons-- but is also used for the above purposes. So, if there is a club refinisher in your area- they may have AOX on board to buy in small quantities. Golfworks may be able to make up a small batch for you. RR
one thing…
You absolutely have to rough up the tip of the shaft that is going into the persimmon head. I use the side of a file to rough it up… so the epoxy has something to grip onto…
If you just slipped in a shiny smooth shaft… then yes… you would have problems…
Not sure you did this… but just posting this for anyone else reading
Good point Lag…
I assumed Mac abraded the tip…the AOX, combined with the abrading will form a good grip on things…
I would also suggest abrading the entire portion of the shaft that is inserted…and using the epoxy and AOX all the way up to that spot.
I like to use wet/dry sandpaper for abrading…that black sandpaper. I cut it into 1/4" strips…place the shaft in a rubber shaft holdger- place it into a vise and wrap the sandpaper around the shaft while using…kinda like buffing shoes with a cloth. You can get about 180 degrees of abrading on one pass…turn the shaft in the vise and do the other 180 degrees. RR
Recommend a bit more abrasion than just sand paper at least for steel shafts. Sanding is necessaryand a fine mill file will leave deeper grooves thus making more surface area for the epoxy. Clean iron hosels out well using a rotary tool (Dremel) if available using a stone grinding attachment and consider acetone to degrease. A bit of sandpaper around a dowel might work also. Old woods may have a black glue that needs to be cleaned with step drilling or a tapered reamer. New backscrews are easier if you mark and pre-drill shaft holes before installation of a new shaft.
MOST IMPORTANT!!
Always use the best epoxy you can find. Some of the Devcon high strength is OK but I only use the good stuff with a long cure time from Maltby or Golfsmith. No five minute epoxy for shafts ever (putters OK). MR