I have some Accufom 2 (cavity back) irons and a set of Accuform (blade) PTM irons. The Accuform 2 appear to be regular flex and the PTM is stiff flex. Both are Apollo and made in England. I am wondering about reshafting. Do the old steel shafts lose some performance over time? Thank you so much.
David
What I know of steel shafts is that they will tend to work harden over repeated use so in theory they get stiffer. Are the any outward signs of rust through the chrome finish of the shafts? That is often a sign of some moisture being in the shafts. Apollo shafts are quite good despite their often budget pricing. I reshafted a set of Wilson iron with Apollo shafts recently.
Thank you for your reply. I see no signs of missing chrome or rust.. I was just thinking of the “work hardening” as you suggest. I suspect that the Apollo are no longer made in England, but yes they have a budget pricing and very available from MTM Sports out of Edmonton Alberta Canada. So that is where I would get them. MTM seems to be a reseller of Hireko Golf. Hireko Golf has a lot of great educational and technical info on their website. I will have to check though if the PTM are tapered shafts or not. If tapered then I may purchase KBS or have my local machine shop bore them to .370. Not sure what would be most economical. Or True Temper is a good price in tapered. That would be most econmical if tapered rather than boring them out.
Here in the states KBS is a more budget friendly option and the tour taper comes in at 130g. True temper x7 is pricey at close to $50 per at most places. I use the stepless apolo shaft and I bored the hosels myself. Value golf was where I purchased the shafts and they also had steel wood shafts if you want to bore persimmon heads notherwise no other company is manufacturing new steel wood shafts.
Interesting. Maybe my supplier still has some True Temper Dynamic Gold left over at 50.00 Canadian each. The KBS are 90.00 Canadian. So about 35% exchange to USD. The PTM heads are likely an Alloy as the founder of Accuform used the investment cast method and then machined the heads to finish any imperfections found. I don’t think I can bore those myself. I hope to be able to use the Apollo through the set though. But I have to pull one to really see if they are tapered. I can’t quite be sure yet. The Accuforn 2 are .370. Thanks for your help.
I’ve only worked with the .370 parallel Apollo shafts, stepped and stepless. They aren’t my favorite but they are very affordable and have a long parallel tip section to offer flexibility.
I’ve also used a few of their steel wood shafts and those aren’t bad at all and also very affordable.
I’m not familiar with their older products.
Actually don’t have to pull the shaft to check for taper. Parallel tipo on stepped shaft will stay .370 to the first step whereas taper will continue to increase. As I recall diameter should be about .395 just below the first step if it’s a tapered tip
On the alloy ichabces are it would be around the 304 hardness level. Hard to drill straight but if you vice it and use a self centering reamer instead you wouldn’t have much trouble. I did ping eye2 in the past and they were hard 17-4.
Thanks again. A cobalt self centering reamer??
That should do the trick. A little cutting oil and go slow. You’re really not removing much material. I turned by hand and would make a few turns curing then back out go in again etc. Measure hosel depth and use a piece of tape to mark where you want to stop. If one from golfworks designed for .370 isn’t available 3/8 can be used. If you can find metric I think it would be like 9.5mm
Yup, sounds like a plan.