i found an almost complete set of button back dyna’s at a thrift store for $2 per club.
they have ultralite shafts which a couple are bent so i was going to pull them, hopefully i
can save the ferruls but i doubt it. can the shafts be taken out while saving the red inserts?
how long are those things?
i don’t think i’ve ever reshafted wilsons that have the inserts…
the heads are really nice, not hit much. 3-sw, missing 5 and 9. i’m pretty sure i can find them around time.
They have a ferrule removal tool. Kinda of an u shaped thin metal tool that you get in between the ferrule and hosel and try to move up like a pry bar. Problem is with tapered shafts, they don’t really like to move up. Parallel tip, not as much of a problem. The other thing you can do is use a sharp utility knife and cut them down the middle (parallel with the shaft) then you can pop them off. Be careful though it can be dangerous with that knife. Once you pop it off, you can just pop it on to another shaft. Acetone is used to kinda of melt it/smooth it together if you care about looks. Usually, they epoxy is used to glue it back together and onto the hosel top.
As for the red insert, I assume it is similar to what I had in my Haig Ultras. It’s a long piece of rubber that goes up the shaft and past where the hosel ends. Putting alot of heat on the shaft to get it out will probably melt/burn the upper part of the insert in the shaft. Don’t ask me how I know…
If you have a shaft puller tool, you can probably just use a heat gun and maybe save the complete insert. I don’t think yo really need all that much of the insert, so even if you do melt the top part, you still will have plenty to plug the bottom.
You might want to try doing everything on one club first to see how much trouble it will be to do the rest. The shaft may be a weird size taper or even threaded in. You will probably find it’s a lot of work and may not want to do the rest.
Sometimes even at $2 a club, they cost more than they are worth. Again, don’t ask me how I know…
If you want to try and save the ferrules try this. Boil some water that is in a pan big enough to put the clubhead into so the ferrule gets hot or just pour some of the boiling water slowly over the ferrule so it gets hot enough that you can slide it away from the hosel some. You only need it to move a a little. (To get it off after just do the same.) Then wrap the ferrule with a strip if a wet cloth so that it’s covered. The apply your heat to hte hosel. As soon as it moves take it off and cool the shaft and ferrule in a bucket of water ASAP. They are actually pretty easy to save. The rubber plug will either pull out staying in the head or sometime they stay in the shaft. Either way the trick is to cool them quick. These rubber plugs were used to fine tune swing weighting and are found to be in various length inside these club. To reinsert them just twist them into place and push. The ultrlight shaft is a tapered shaft that has a double taper at the tip. Ideally if you replace them with a .355 taper you reem the hosel or you can use a unitized shaft and just drill it to .370. I’m just not a fan of the unitized shaft. These clubs are better after reshafting as the ultralite shaft was not as good as say a Dynamic or TT lite.
If you need ferrrules I have new ones that are an exact match trim rings and all. PM me. I have probably have the odd clubs you are missing too. I’m in the states but could send heads only at a reasonable price. I have tons of odd Wilson Staffs from this era. I have 4 full sets of 71’s and a couple of 69 bullet backs and 73 toe weights. I have played them all and really liked the 69 and 71 blade. I would recomend you get them up to the modern length or at least to a 39" 2 iron. They made them 2 different lengths some 39" 2 iron and some 38 1/2. Wilson also had on of the weaker standard lofts at the time compared to say a Hogan. You are looking at a 31 degree 5 iron and a 51 degree PW. The 71 Staff may have been one of the more popular blades on the LPGA in the late 70’s and early 80’s. Players like Hollis Stacy, Sally Little and many others won tounaments and majors with this club. That was in an era when club/bag contract did not demand you play the latest greatest model. They are however great heads and one of the easier blades to hit due to the rolled leading edge and heel to to radius featured on Wilson clubs. An idea credited to Sam Sneads grinding request.
thank you for the info!
i have a bunch of Dynamic gold .355’s laying around so i was going to replace the ultralites with those. what does double taper mean? or i guess how much should i ream it out? or just drill it til it fits?
i also have a set of 67’s that have the original dynamic stiff shafts in them but they are way short, i was just going to extend those as the shafts
are still in very nice shape.
i will pm you about the ferrules and random heads.